Individuals, communities and societies build landscape. How societies
form, how communities relate, what people do every day and all their lives
reflects and builds landscape. Societies make landscape in different ways. All
societies construct landscape communally. In fields, roads and cities, building
and maintaining are collective endeavors. Tires, feet, exhaust – all part of a shared
action – motion, erosion, corrosion. A pile of garbage, a garden, a coating of
soot or fresh paint.
Prelude: Valladolid, a sleepy Yucatecan town, a place of conflict
where the "caste wars" were fought by the Mayans, desperate for self-determination,
economic and social freedom. Nightmares crawl up onto you from the blood
spilled here.
Today Valladolid is cheerful, leafy and lively. Janet suggests we
follow the "Route of Seven Churches" to get the lay of the land.
First hesitating, then confidently, we follow the tourist information map. We
see the spire of one church from the plaza of another churchwe visit. We drink
a coke in the semi-shade of a tree filled with birds.
We consider the flat landscape of Valladolid and its churches, every
one replacing a Mayan pyramid. We reimagine the city in its Mayan incarnation,
a different place but one still filled with people, markets, roadways and
pyramids.
Continuation: Mérida,
Yucatán’s capital, a pulsing
city of over a million. Valladolid's “seven churches” are replaced by twenty or
more. Walking the narrow colonial sidewalks, bathed in fumes from careening
buses, this is a grey city for all its vibrancy, coated in the dust of exhaust
and baked by tropical light. The buildings squat together in the hot light of
noon or in late day shadows. Walking more than in Valladolid, we see more and
we see less.
South of the city—a fork in the road. In ancient times, one road led
to Ticul and trade in the interior, another to Campeche, the sea and beyond.
Ancient geography superimposes itself. The modern place melts onto the bones of
the old. Standing here, Mérida
becomes real, not just a collection of shops, restaurants, hawkers, buses,
trucks, and evening strollers. Mérida
is history. What communal efforts built it?
The next day-a cool, rainy bus ride to Mayapán, supposedly the
only Mayan ceremonial center that remained active into European times. At Mayapán – after a long ride into uncharted
areas teeming with ruined pyramids in the middle of busy villages – we
encounter a super deluxe coach carrying Germans, who have spilled onto the site.
They are doing yoga on the buildings, kneeling and stuffing notes into cricks
in the structures, possibly thinking about human sacrifice.
They leave, almost forgetting the smallest, weakest, oldest member
of their group in her wheelchair. We have Mayapán to ourselves. In the wind and low sky of grey clouds, spitting
raindrops, it is intense-- intensity of travel, intensity of site, intensity of
an encounter with the plain lunacy of foreigners who travel with cognitive maps
so clearly clashing with the place they visit. Mayapán looks like it was buried almost to the
tips of its pyramids. It reminds us that much lies beneath.
On the bus back to Mérida
we are chilled, tired and overwhelmed with the site, hard to interpret. In town
we try for a Spanish (not Mexican) restaurant, are chased away by cigarette
smoke and steep prices. We wander the downtown streets of Mérida hungry and thirsty, a head above
the crowds that pack the workaday sidewalks.
Janet points out a parking lot raised just above street level. On
the far wall of the parking lot are two baroque columns, remains of a
Spanish-era chapel. Why the chapel? And why is the parking lot raised in
dead-flat Mérida? Obvious.
It's sitting on temple ruins.
Is this whole city sitting on ruins? Is Mayapán, ruins itself,
sitting on even deeper ruins? What about Valladolid and the surrounding
villages? Is there any place in the Yucatán not sitting on ruins? How did they come to be buried? Some we know
were recycled—contemporary roadside walls built from the whitewashed sacbeob
stones, churches constructed from the rocks of temples and pyramids.
But the
puzzle I've been trying to solve since I first came to the Yucatán: stucco walls decorated playfully,
skillfully, boldly, with what appear to be random stone chips.
Experiment: Ceramics Studio, Boston University. Up here on the fifth
floor I've been venting my creative instincts, finding new colleagues and new
ways to play with clay, struggling with a project
referencing the pillars of Ake, near Mérida, where I took dozens of photographs of amazing, outsized,
isolated, windswept, sculptural stone pillars.
My ceramics experiment is a mixed bag. None of my miniature pillars
sing with the energy and awareness of the real thing. I decide to carve, painstakingly,
chipping off pieces of my small, imitation Ake pillars, coming to grips with
the shape of the rocks I'm trying to depict, building a pile of random
leather-hard clay chips—chips that look exactly like the random stone chips of
the stucco walls in Valladolid. I return to my Flickr site, where I've
faithfully recorded every picture that's worth sharing of my time in Mexico. I
stare, breathless, at a wall in Downtown, Mérida, whitewashed but grey with soot and smoke, chock full of
tightly packed, random-looking stones.
But those stones weren't random. They littered the streets of
Valladolid (not yet Valladolid), and they littered the streets of Mérida (not yet Mérida), when the Spanish arrived. They
were the chips left by generations of stonecutters – hundreds of years' worth –
who trimmed the stones that built the temples, evidence of collective human
work on the landscape. Colonists incorporated the chips into their stucco, and
there they sit. Puzzle solved.
The ancestors of today's Mayans built a landscape of glorious cities
of worship and power. The by-product: unassuming chipped stones piled in the
streets, created over ages by many hands. The collective goal of the Mayan
civilization was the building and upkeep of those cities. Every hand in society
supported the priests, sacrifices and physical presence of the cities of ritual
that became Valladolid and Mérida.
Temples and pyramids were built from stones trimmed and chipped near these
sites for hundreds of years. Landscape: a collective human endeavor.
Postlude: A visit to New York City and Ground Zero.
"Occupiers" are still stationed at Zuccotti Park, a few steps away.
The horrible, scarred landscape, the hole, the crowds, the bronze bas-relief of
heroes of the NYPD, overwhelmed by a calamity beyond their ken and beyond their
means to ameliorate. Yet all around the scene of disaster, all around the
milling people, all surrounding the Occupy protesters soars the landscape of
Wall Street, which we as a society continue to build with all our focus. Cranes
pushing skyward, the landscape of the financial apparatus is the centerpiece of
our communal efforts. Whatever we save, buy, eat or “invest” contributes to
those buildings, to that financial "community.” I realize with a dollop of
shame that these towers are our pyramids, this landscape of greed our bequest
to the future.
This appeared as an article in Arcade Magazine 31:4